After too few hours of sleep I hit the road at around 4:30am and had an uneventful drive up. Dawn broke early in the trip and for the first time I could take in the scenery. Lots of interesting peaks in Vermont and I'm sure they will feature in future adventures. With virtually no other traffic I had the cruise set to my usual number but kept a sharp eye open for wildlife crossing the highway. I did see two deer hesitating to cross on the median and slowed to be safe. I also kept an eye on my rear view mirror on the grounds that anything that caught up to me was either a crazy speedster or a cop. The unmistakable profile of a Crown Victoria with a bubble bar came into view so I eased of a few points. I think this guy was going for the land speed record because he blew by me like I was standing still.

I had never driven the Tripoli Road so I wasn't sure what to expect. I hit it from the North Woodstock end because that's my quickest route to that part of the Whites. After the paved surface ran out it was a little gravelly but otherwise in pretty good shape. I knew the trail head was at 'height of land' so I managed to drive right past the entrance as there was still a little up after it. Backing up I managed to catch a mudflap on a rock which produced a loud bark and drew the attention of some hikers who were preparing for the off. A few cars were already there but I managed to tuck into a space on the shady side of the parking lot.

When I got out of the car I was met by a swarm of mosquitoes, my heart sank. If this was to be my company for the hike it would likely be a short one. Bug off/sunscreen on first then boots on, pack checked and car locked in as short a time as possible. A quick picture of the trail sign and then I headed into the woods at around 8am. The mosquitoes seemed to like the pickings at the parking lot and they didn't follow me. This was a good omen. A few appeared if I tarried too long while stopping for a drink but they were manageable.

The Osceola Trail starts out easy and although hints that it might get steep it never really does. Where it does gain altitude it does so by a series of long switchbacks. The trail is in great shape and offers up every kind of surface imaginable. There are sections of rock hopping, wet slab, dry slap, boulders, roots and just pleasant woodsy walk with a springy carpet of pine needles. For those looking for a trail to a four thousand footer that is not too taxing I can heartily recommend it.

I could see nothing but blue sky through the tree canopy and an occasional breeze was a welcome addition. The temperature when I started out was in the mid 50's, perfect hiking weather. I ambled along at my 'slow but sure' uphill pace taking many a stop to quieten the pounding in my ears, let my breathing regain a normal rythmn and to take a sip of Gatorade.

As usual I was caught and overtaken by more than a few people. I hear people approaching and when they get close I'll pull over to let them pass by. When I made one stop and turned to greet the owners of the voices coming up from behind my view was drawn to one of the largest dogs I'd ever seen! It was a black and white Great Dane and he looked as if he could have me for breakfast and still be wanting. He was accompanying two women and his owner slipped his leash on. More out of courtesy than need I am sure but a reassuring move. Reuben, as I discoved his name to be, was a gentle giant and a magnificent animal. Standing a little downhill to the side of the trail I found myself almost eye to eye with him as he passed.

The trail continued its ascent and before long I knew I had to be close to the summit. I came into a small clearing to find concrete foundation blocks and my recollection of the summit description was that it once had a fire tower. "This must be it" I told myself and proceeded to take a self portrait by setting up the camera on the tripod. Having gone though the palaver of doing this and then heading on a few more yards I of course found myself at the true site of the old fire tower on the fantastic ledges. Whichever spot is the true summit, I have a picture of me on it.

Coming out onto those ledges and being greeted by the views it offered was one of the most memorable moments I have yet to experience in the Whites. There was a little distant haze but the air was mostly clear and the blue sky was dotted by only a handful of fluffy white clouds. Better still there were no bugs! I took a few pictures and then settled in for a rest, a snack and a drink. The ledges offer many spots for reclining and even without padding it was still possible to get propped up in a comfortable position. Although there were a dozen or so people on the summit it did not feel crowded. Lounging in the hot sun with a cool breeze it was tempting to just stay there and rest. The views were never ending and I wished I had binoculars to get a little more detail... another item added to the wish list.

However, I still had Osceola East to conquer and lounging on the ledges was not going to get me there and back. One of the guide books I have describes the trail between the two peaks as "rough, steep and difficult". Within a few yards of the summit it lets you know that the books do not lie as it drops down at a good rate over large boulders and loose gravel. After easing off for a while there is another stretch of steep bouldery going but again this is just a warm up for the main event "The Chimney"!

The Chimney is a daunting drop of, I'm guessing, thirty feet but it looks more like three hundred! I looked at the descent from the top of the chimney for a few minutes and decided I would save it for the return journey. There is a bypass trail to the left (going down) and although still a challenge it is a more manageable option for the descent. In preparation, I tightened my laces and lashed my poles to my pack as they would be more of a hinderance than a help. Taking it slow and steady and remembering the rule of keeping three points of contact the descent was made. As it turns out, I'll tell you why later, my decision to take the bypass route down was a good one and, unless you are very sure of your abilities, I would recommend that course of action to anyone else attempting this trail.

After reaching the low point of the pass the trail than ascends to the East peak over mostly easy going with a few large boulders thrown in for good measure. There are a couple of good outlooks from points on the ascent which makes up for the lack of views from the totally underwelming summit itself marked by a cairn in the woods.

As I was setting up for a summit self-portrait I heard folk approaching and lo and behold there was MichaelJ! Couldn't have timed it better. He was hiking with two couples. Audrey and Pat and Tony (AMSTony on VFTT) and Melanie (sp?) I knew Audrey and Tony from the VFTT board but we had never met in person. After introductions and a little chatting we took some summit pics then the others headed back to the main peak ledges for lunch while I pottered around the East peak looking for views.

As I made my way back down to the pass I could hear voices from folk as they went up, or around, the Chimney on the opposite side. There was one spot where the trail above the Chimney was easily visible and I took a snap, capturing someone in a red top. Upon later examination using PhotoShop I could make out a red shirt, Yellow pack and blue cap - it was Pat!

Soon it was my turn to look up at the Chimney and make a decision. It didn't look quite so terrifying from below and handholds and footholds were more easily seen. I decided I would go for it. Once again I tightened laces and stashed poles. At the very first steep pitch I discovered a problem, one I was glad to have discoved then and not during the course of a descent. I carry my camera in a pouch attached to my hip belt. In the confines of that first pitch it wedged against the side and put me off balance and restricted my movement. I stepped back down and removed the pouch and stashed it inside my pack.

With this problem soved I tackled the climb. There were plenty of handholds and footholds but some of the fractured rocks were quite loose, even some larger blocks, so care had to be taken with each new selection. With my seized spine I do not have the flexibility required for some moves so my ascent was a combination of pulling, pushing, kneeling, crawling and a small measure of cursing. I reached the top with a great deal of personal satisfaction and took a well earned breather.

In retrospect I should have had the common sense to remove my camera and water bottle in order to reduce my profile and the risk of fouling. However, I am first and foremost a hiker not a technical climber and I would put this short pitch in the grey area between the two. For most general hikers I would strongly recommend descending by the by-pass route and attempting the chimney as an ascent only if it is dry and you feel able to complete the task.

In the heat of the post noon sun I slowly made my way back up the rough trail to the summit, just in time to catch the others as they prepared to head down. Michael commented that my face was as red as my shirt, and that shirt is *red*! I put it down mostly to exertion and a little to the sun but nothing to worry about. I had applied an spf30 sunblock before starting out and would apply more before leaving the summit.

After the others headed out I found a spot to lounge while I ate, drank and just took in the views. Osceola summit is just a great place to be on such a great day. Rested and nourished I made ready to leave. As I reached the scrub I turned for one last look at those magnificent views. This is one summit I will most definitely return to.

Without paying much heed I headed into the scrub on a trail. As it turned out it was not 'the' trail as was soon demonstrated by having to brush between the trees. I could see other trails through the scrub and cut accross to another, more travelled one and this lead to the spot where I first encountered the concrete tower blocks. Have to pay more attention in future as to where a trail exits onto ledges.

As usual I made good time on the descent. I don't have a stamina problem, just a breathing problem on the ups. I had mentioned this to my doctor and he sent me for all sorts of tests for heart and lungs but everything checked out fine. I believe the problem is due to my Ankylosing Spondylitis having affected my rib joints thus restricting lung capacity. After a year of hiking following a long abstinence I am a little better and I'm sure it will improve with time but I know I'll always be a slow hiker. However, I've never yet climbed a mountain that didn't have the patience to wait for me.

I met lots of people still on their way up including a couple of guys who seemed less that well prepared. One of them was swigging from a bottle of Mikes hard lemonade. I have a feeling they never made the summit.

The trail eases its way down and at the very last moment turns a corner to reveal the sight of cars through the trees. I emerged into the parking lot to find Michael and Audrey still winding down. Turns out they had only arrived maybe five or ten minutes earlier. Audrey commented that my claims of being a slow hiker were now in serious question! Once again the most bugs encountered were the mosquitoes in the parking lot. They must know there are good pickings to be had there.

The day was rounded out in pleasant company with a great beer and munchies on the terrace at the Woodstock Inn. They do not get much better than that. A fantastic summers day in the mountains.