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January 4th, 2004
Fun on Flume on the Fourth - White Mountains NH |
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My ramblings got so extended this time I decided to put them after the index of images!
What a great day! Despite suffering more than usual from a bad cold, and all appearances to the contrary, I did have a great time. A big thank you to everyone who took part in this event. Especially to those who looked out to my wellbeing and for BoB for sticking with me on the way down and running me back to my car at Lincoln Woods. That last eight tenths of a mile of trail was a killer, I doubt I'd have enjoyed hitching down the road much. Shame I missed everyone at the Inn afterwards, I guess I am doomed to be late for everything. While I hope to meet you all again on future hikes I doubt we'll actually get to hike together for long. My pace will never get that good :) We all got to be in the same places, albeit at different times, and experience once again new aspects of the mountains. I can think of no finer place to be than on a mountain top leaning into the wind, feeling the planet spin.
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|   1 - 6:59am Lincoln Woods Trail | 16 - 12:11pm Cloudbound Liberty Summit |
|   2 - 7:10am Osseo Trail Junction | 17 - 12:22pm BoB (not Bob) heading for Flume Summit |
|   3 - 7:28am Paw Print | 18 - 12:26pm On Flume summit with Liberty behind. |
|   4 - 7:54am Whaleback through the trees | 19 - 12:27pm BoB (not Bob) on Flume Summit |
|   5 - 8:13am Trailbreakers! | 20 - 1:15pm Flume from side of Liberty |
|   6 - 8:18am Tweeners & Speeders catch up... | 21 - 1:40pm Liberty Summit |
|   7 - 8:24am ...and off they go again! | 22 - 1:41pm Flume and beyond from Liberty |
|   8 - 9:05am Sunshine! | 23 - 1:41pm Cannon from Liberty |
|   9 - 10:18am A View | 24 - 1:55pm Looking back at Liberty Summit |
| 10 - 10:27am More is revealed | 25 - 2:03pm Liberty Springs Trail Junction |
| 11 - 10:48am I reach the downlook... | 26 - 3:08pm Washed out trail |
| 12 - 10:48am ...and look down. | 27 - 3:19pm Brook crossing |
| 13 - 11:59am End of Osseo | 28 - 3.31pm Lower end of Flume Slide Trail |
| 14 - 11:59am Flume Slide Trail Junction | 29 - 3.53pm White House Trail Junction |
| 15 - 12:11pm Near Flume Summit | 30 - 4:16pm Wooo-hooo! Made it. |
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Some how after the great North Kinsman group hike it fell to me to organize the next trip. A few ideas were bandied about but the consensus fell to doing a traverse of Flume and Liberty with groups heading up from either side. Planning for the trip started way back in mid December and, with the holidays and all, January 4th seemed a long way off. The days slipped by and jolly times were had by all, both on and off the mountains, and before we knew it the day was approaching. With posts on both the AMC and VFTT bulletin boards more and more folk showed an interest in joining the trip. At a maximum I think we had over 40 participants! Then as the day approached so the weather forecast got gloomier. Temps in the 40's combined with rain pose a high risk for developing hypothermia and a few people made the decision to pull out. The maxim that 'The mountain will always be there, make sure you are' is a wise one. In the last few days leading up to the event the forecast slowly improved and a few folk were still prepared to go up to the mountains on the chance that things would work out, but always with the option to pull out should conditions deteriorate again. After all, there was always the Woodstock Inn! As the day got closer so a cold I was nursing worsened. I wasn't sure I would be able to join in on the trip I had helped put together. I had a room reserved at a motel in North Woodstock so I decided to head up no matter what and see how I felt on the day. I checked into the motel, dumped my gear and then headed out on the five minute stroll to the Woodstock Inn to meet up with some of the other early arrivals. I'd never been there before and was surprised by the number of dining rooms, bars and other nooks and crannies. It also dawned on me that I had no idea what most of the people I was hoping to meet looked like! I had met a few on the Kinsman hike, but sans gear and icicles (a la Turnbill) would I recognize even them? I scouted around but didn't see any likely faces and nobody recognized me so I settled in at one of the bars and ordered up some potato skins and a glass of the Woodstock Brewery's finest. Food was good, beer was good but too late I realized this was a smoking bar. A fact that made itself clear when, just after starting in on my food, the guy next to me fired up a cigarette and the smoke decided it wanted to be my friend. After eating I decided to have one last scout around then head back to the motel. I looked around the faces in the very crowded bar and as I turned I saw... Sherpa! I said "Paul?" "Yes." he replied "How did you know?" Although we had never met I recognized him from some of his trip pictures I had seen online. Having introduced myself I found that I had stumbled into a good contingent of hikers. Some faces I recognized, others were new to me. There were introductions and we chatted a while and then, when the table they had been waiting for became ready, I excused myself to go get an early night. My cold had a good grip and if I was to hike in the morning I would need a good rest and hopefully see some relief. Someone would later comment that I had looked 'like death warmed over!' Believe me, I didn't feel that good :) So, I returned to my motel and crashed early. My night started out well and then around 11pm my neighbors returned to their room. First they played "How many times can we slam a car door". Next they did the "Is it one beep or two beeps to set the alarm?" routine. They followed this with a good session of boot stamping and a jolly conversation or two. With sleep disturbed I found it hard to drop off again and every little noise became annoying. The clock on the wall ticked louder and louder and the refrigerator would start and stop with a horrendous thunk! This same piece of equipment also boasted a sign warning not to turn it off as charges for damages would be made. I guess I was not the first to think it noisy. I slept fitfully until at 4:30am my alarm sounded. I did not feel rested and my cold had not improved overnight. I used the microwave, a nice touch, to prepare a hot breakfast and that, combined with a couple mugs of coffee, made me feel part human again. A good hot shower would help a little. Well, it was hot at least. The shower head only had a circle of holes working with the result that it only produced a wide cone of pathetic jets. No matter how I tried I could not get under a satisfying flow of water. Rinsing the hair of shampoo required the performance of a crazy, head swirling dance. By the time I was dressed and ready I realized I was never going to make the Whitehouse trail head in time for the 5:30am meet and car spotting so I headed directly to Lincoln Woods. I got there a few minutes before 6am to find a few cars but no signs of activity. I waited, and waited. Nobody else showed or emerged from cars so I decided I would just head off on my own and have people catch me up. People *always* catch me up. As I was doing a final pack check a car pulled up and out popped Rambler. We introduced ourselves and decided that we may as well head out together as nobody else seemed to be arriving for the early start. I knew from conversations from the night before that Sherpa & Co aimed to start around 7am. It was still pitch dark when we set off around 6:30am but the sky was clear and the stars were out in force. This was a good omen as the forecast still had the day as being mostly cloudy. We headed for the Rangers hut that was producing a good amount of wood smoke. The trail starts off over the porch of the hut but the way the sign pointed was barred. A ranger had come out to see us and told us we would have to make a short detour heading off on a different trail then making a U-turn to come back to the base of the wooden steps down from the porch. The steps were blocked off, probably due to icing and liability issues.
The suspension bridge over the East Branch was quite impressive and inadvertently walking in step Rambler and I managed to set up quite a bounce towards the middle! It was still way too dark to photograph effectively unfortunately. Reaching the first trail sign where the trail met the old railroad grade I decided to try and get a picture of it using the flash. I turned the camera on and got nothing but info items on the screen. I turned if off, and on and off and on. Nothing.
A short while later, as the sky began to lighten, I decided to try again. This time the preview screen did wake up. I have tentatively concluded that, in certain circumstances, unless the CCD is getting enough light it just won't turn on.
The first mile or so of the trail follows the path of an old logging railroad and is a nice easy grade. There was little snow on the ground and Rambler and I made good progress as we chatted and tramped. Turning off the railroad grade onto the Osseo trail we made our way into the woods. Still an easy grade for quite a while and I was doing fairly well, I figured I might last the day out after all.
After the trail turned to follow the side of the valley up to the ridge the grade increased. It was still far from steep, but my body was not liking it and I was getting out of breath too quickly. We picked up some animal tracks on the trail and followed them for quite a distance. The small prints, about an inch across, showed four toes with extended claw points and a central pad. We mused on what the maker was, maybe a fox?
On one of my, by now, frequent rest and sip stops I noticed it was 8am. I wrote in the snow the time and our names so the following groups would know we were ahead and by how far. Not ten minutes later Farmer Bob and ? catch up to us. We stop again for a chat, sip and a nibble. Then, just as we are about to start off again another bigger group catches up. More introductions, chat, sipping and munching ensue. I suggest it's an opportunity for a group picture but we decide to wait until later. I should have insisted as it's the last I'll see these of these guys for the day and probably the time most people were in one spot.
I tell Rambler he doesn't have to stay with me and that I'll wait for Sherpa and a couple others to catch up to me. Perhaps their pace will one I can keep up with. The group heads off and I have not ambled far when Sherpa's crew catches up. Another stop and chat and then off again. I tell them I'm suffering more than usual and to not wait for me but they do a couple of times anyway. I just can't keep going and have to make frequent stops. I tell them I often hike alone and I don't want to hold anyone back so they should just keep going.
As I head up the trail into the switchbacks I catch voices on the wind from above. I'm struggling but I'd rather be out in the woods than sniffling in front of the TV! I make the most of the stops and take in the views, the trees, the sounds, the solitude. The sun comes and goes and it is quite a pleasant day considering the earlier forecasts.
My pace slows further as I reach the ladders. They are pretty snowed over and iced up but with plenty of folk having gone before me I have well defined boot holds to follow and I forgo the crampons that I would have donned otherwise. Above the ladders I find a message in the snow. "Hi Bob! 10:30" I check the time and it's 11am so I have fallen behind by around 30 minutes - less than I had expected.
The gradient above the ladders eases but I'm still huffing and puffing. Not too far off the summit I hear noise behind and turn to find Chris (clg898) and his friend Alan catching up to me. Chris says he is undecided as to whether to return by way of the Osseo or to push on to Liberty and do the traverse, hoping to get a ride back to Lincoln Woods. They push on to Flume and are soon lost to sight.
I finally scale a short icy rock scramble to have a view of the side of Flume summit and the wind revealed to me. The narrow, icy path that leads to the summit sits between the stunted scrubby trees and the cliff edge. I decide now is a good time for crampons. As I am fitting them on I spy Chris and Alan returning. They say the wind is fierce on top and there are clouds rolling through. They have decided to return the way they came, partly because of the uncertainty of a ride at the other end. I wish them good luck, thinking the ladders will be particularly nasty to descend. Crampons on I push on.
Having gone only a short way I turn and see another lone hiker at the first ledge. We shout to each other over the wind until my voice is hoarse. It is BoB (not Bob) who has just conquered the Flume Slide. No mean feat in the best of conditions. I wait while he catches up to me and we push on together to the summit of Flume which is only a short ways off.
BoB dons an outer shell while I am still comfortable in my Marmot Dryclime jacket. I am a hot hiker and this jacket, with just a wicking undershirt and lightweight fleece, has me toasty in pretty cold conditions. The jacket is windproof but breathable enough not to sweat up a storm.
BoB also has yet to decide between descending via the Osseo or completing the loop via the Liberty Springs trail. I tell him that the ladders on the Osseo are a tad iffy and that distance wise Liberty Springs is a little shorter and probably an easier descent. I also tell him that from a personal perspective knowing I'll have a ride when I finally get off the mountain would be a big comfort! BoB is swayed and as he re-layers I head off at a good clip to try and get some distance before he catches up and I slow him down.
The col between Flume and Liberty is over 500 feet and I groan a little at every step I take down knowing I'll have to retake each one up the other side. I have no breathing problems on the down and make good time off of Flume and at the start of the upside. BoB doesn't catch up to me until I get into my 50 steps or less and take a breather mode. He sticks with me until near the summit when he gets a little ahead.
Feels good to reach Liberty Summit knowing it's mostly downhill from here on out. I take some pictures, including the obligatory self portrait and then start down. I had taken my crampons off after leaving Flume summit but just off Liberty summit I find myself at the top of a short but very icy rock ledge. I dither, but err on the side of safety and struggle to get my crampons back on. My inflexible spine and the awkward spot I choose to tackle this task makes for hard work. With crampons and poles I edge my way down the rocks without incident.
It's very windy on the exposed summit so BoB had gone on and was waiting for me at the junction with the Liberty Springs trail. I keep my crampons on for the descent while Bob Bare boots it. With BoB having to be more cautious, and my ability to keep going on the downs, I have no trouble keeping up and we make good time.
We stop at the campsite junction for a sip. The Canadian Jays peep at us from the branches but go unfed for once. My right foot is pushing forward in my boot and I retighten the lacing before going on but I still get pressure on my little toe and feel a blister coming on.
I tell BoB he doesn't have to wait for me even though I am making better time. I expect someone from the earlier crew will either be waiting or popping back to see that I get off the mountain and a ride to my car and ask BoB to let them know I'm not far behind.
With my toe getting more uncomfortable, but not wanting to stop to try and remedy matters, I push on but at a slower pace. I meet a hiker heading up and he stops to chat. I think he is a little optimistic in his plan to summit Liberty starting this late in the day but say nothing. We talk a while and BoB gets quite a way ahead.
A little further down I reach a part of the trail tat resembles a stream bed with most of the snow washed out. I decide to remove my crampons, I should have waited a while. The trail gets icy again and I slow even further being more cautious. A little way after the Flume Slide trail junction I slip on an icy root and fall hard on my left arm. Better that than my back, but I wonder for a few moments whether it broke. Thankfully not and I get to my feet again. The trail is fairly level now so I don't put crampons back on, but the fall has made me even more cautious and I slow further. I hope BoB is patient and waits for me!
I finally reach the bike path and know it's not far to go, but that last 8 tenths of a mile are awful long. The trail leaves the level path and heads off into the woods doing many a small up and down squeezing the last vestiges of energy from my body. Just when I'm wondering if I'll ever reach the parking lot I see signs and vehicles through the trees.
BoB is there to greet me and his truck is running and toasty warm. I make it to the parking lot at around 4:15 - no headlamp required! Bob says Jaytrek57 had swung by to check for me. A big thank you for looking out for me guys. BoB runs me back to Lincoln Woods and waits long enough to be sure my car starts OK.
I head back to the motel grab a pathetic, but welcome, shower and change of clothes. I flop on the bed for 'a few minutes' but this turns into more than a few minutes and I don't make it down to the Woodstock Inn until a little after 6:30. I check every nook and cranny but it seems everyone has been and gone. Too slow again! Not wanting to beer and dine alone I head back to the motel. On the way I grab a frozen lasagna at a gas station and nuke this for dinner. When I finally crash I sleep for ten hours straight!
The end of another great day in the mountains. Yes, I suffered a little more than usual but that made the sense of achievement that little bit sweeter.
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